The opening nine is surprisingly playable and friendly, routed across the flattest and most forgiving land, with welcoming fairways in abundance. I used the word ‘open’ in my notes on a number of holes on the front nine and whilst there is strategic nuance to some of the holes, it was a surprise to feel so little duress, even in a brisk links breeze. I thought the approach to the 5th was attractive, set into the dunes with angled bunkering defending the foreground. And the 8th and 9th are a strong duo of par-4’s played into the prevailing south westerly breeze, the former featuring one of the more contoured greens on the course and the latter offering a drop shot tee shot to a fairway angled ever so slightly to the left and framed beautifully by the understated dunes, sea and the looming spectre of the clubhouse occupying raised ground to the right hand side. My outward nine score of a level par 35 flattered me and was not the most sparkling in terms of ball striking, but with the 8th being the only par-4 over 400 yards (from the white tees) and with space to breathe off the tee throughout, my ball found itself rarely in danger despite the inconsistency of ball striking. In places, a fairway bunker or two might have added a little interest to the vista (I’m thinking holes 7 & 8 here), but overall you would file this nine away as good and solid (yet relatively unremarkable) links golf if it weren’t compared with the step up in quality that was to follow.

The returning nine holes are consistent in their brilliance and the difficulty and drama ratchets up very quickly as you meander into more tumultuous and characterful terrain. The back nine is longer, plays to a par of 37 and features a much increased level of elevation change. Those three factors ensure the return to the clubhouse is anything but routine and straightforward, a real antithesis to what you’ve seen to date.

I had six holes highlighted as noteworthy or of an elevated quality compared with just two on the outward nine. The 10th is the first of those holes, a par-4 that bullies you from the tee and where the approach plays slightly uphill to a saucer like green. The run 12 to 16 is consistently brilliant and is as energetic and blood pumping a stretch of golf as you could care to find anywhere. The 12th is a brutish par-4, playing long and steadily uphill to a beautiful yet devilish green, defended by a trio of bunkers in the foreground and a run off at the front and left that will punish and deflect any approach that lacks conviction. The 13th is set in a mesmerising spot, a lengthy par-3 played across a shallow valley to a green located in the lee of the highest elevated terrain so far. Igneous and metamorphic rock spears through the turf to the right of the hole just outside the course boundary and fleeting glimpses of the ocean become more regular and remarkable as you rise to the 14th tee, the very highest point on the property. The view from this vantage point is unbelievable, truly one of the most stunning spots in all of the GB&I golf courses I’ve played. The par-5 tee shot is played from on high down to a fairway that runs straight away from you and is bordered at close quarters on the right hand side by the boundary fence. This spot has a feeling of the 10th tee at Royal Portchawl in Wales, but with additional elevation and a whole load more danger. A ridge sweeps diagonally across the second half of the hole, making the 2nd shot a thought provoking one. And the 15th and 16th do nothing to reduce the level of homeward enthusiasm; two testing par-4’s rated SI’s 3&4 and boasting gorgeous aesthetics and natural landforms.

If I had one mild criticism for the back nine, it would be a muted chide related to the back to back par-5 finish. Neither hole is particularly appealing strategically and their most endearing shared quality is the one last spectacular view as you rise the dune that is home to the 17th green and 18th tee.

I felt it important to take a moment to describe the ‘third’ nine at Connemara which is relevant because there is an argument to say that some of this land could (and possibly should) be utilised within the championship layout. The opening holes of this loop are absolutely charming, hugging the coastline more closely than any other holes on the property and offering a playful risk reward element to proceedings. The 7th, 8th and 9th of this nine also occupy some of the finest ground throughout, weaving between that standout run of holes 12-16 on the back nine of the main layout. It’s not without some challenges in a routing sense, but I can’t help but think that if the best elements across the 27 holes were somehow stitched together, the result would more than merit Connemara being ranked well within the GB&I Top 100. In its current guise, the championship course sits on the brink of inclusion, but in reality it is held back by its rather sedentary set of opening nine holes. However as a 27-hole day, this has to be one of the finest collections of golf you will play in Ireland and I would implore anyone headed out this way to make the effort to get to Connemara; you won’t be disappointed with what you find here.