Every true golfer would love to play Cypress Point, but the reality of the matter is that unless you are in the know, only a lucky few will ever get the chance to tee it up on the 1st. Folklore has it that J.F. Kennedy was once refused entry to the restaurant and, with only 250 members, mere mortals find it hard to get a game.
Cypress Point Club is set at the foothills of the Santa Lucia Mountains on the very tip of the Monterey Peninsula and the cliff top terrain is varied and thrilling. Almost as many superlatives have been used to describe the beauty of the location as the course itself.
Masa Nishijima, co-author of Tom Doak’s Confidential Guide to Golf Courses, commented as follows: “Seth Raynor was under contract to do the course, but Raynor passed away in 1926 before the start of construction, and Robert Hunter managed to convince the client to let Dr. MacKenzie have a look at the course when he made his first visit to California later that year.”
“The best 17-hole course in the world” is how Cypress Point has been described. The closing hole is considered by some to be little more than a route back to the clubhouse and perhaps the 16th hole is a weakness too, especially if you can’t carry the ball more than 200 yards into the prevailing wind. The Pacific is the ultimate water hazard on this 231-yard one-shot hole. It’s considered the best golf hole in the world or the worst if you dump your third tee shot into the sea.
David commented on our Cypress Point article. We feel his points are valid and worthy of sharing:
“While most of your course intros seem ok, this one is really off. It was one guy, Jimmy Demaret that called Cypress Point the best 17-hole course he's ever played. He was a great pro, but not an expert in golf course architecture by any means. Granted the 18th might be a little strange, but it's a great hole in its own right. At most courses maybe even their signature hole. A blind tee shot over Cypress Trees to a narrow fairway the dog legs steep up a hill to a green sloping form back to front with a huge cypress tree blocking out the entire left side of the green requiring a perfect drive to have a chance at the green with a shaped approach from an uneven lie. Land it too deep above the hole and you’re faced with a treacherous putt, miss right while shaping your shot and you are in one of the bunkers guarding the green. Does that sound at all like a weak hole?
Also the 16th is not properly described. In typical MacKenzie fashion this hole can be played many ways. He always leaves a way for weaker golfers. The 16th is no different. If the carry is impossible for your ability level you can play left requiring a carry of around or less than 100 yards to a partially hidden fairway and play this hole as a par 4. Any level can do this. I watched a 92 year old man par the hole with no problem in that fashion. So I'd argue this is not my opinion even, it's just plain fact which makes the intro you have incorrect and a bit unfair to Cypress Point and to MacKenzie.”
The Cypress Point Club, located down the road from Pebble Beach, is the best golf course in the world. An Alister MacKenzie masterpiece, it has an unbeatable combination of factors that make it the best. This includes the genius of the routing, the uniqueness of the cypress trees, the artfulness of the bunkers, the bright-white sand, the color of the water in the bay, the ingeniousness of how MacKenzie camouflaged the traps, and the unbeatable views.
Herbert Warren Wind wrote about Cypress Point when they hosted the Walker Cup in 1981: “It should be emphasized that Cypress Point possesses a diversity of terrain possibly unmatched by any other course. It offers not only an unforgettable stretch of cliff-lined holes but some excellent orthodox seaside holes, a few stunning dune-land holes and an arresting sequence of holes that climb inland into hilly terrain, their fairways cut through a forest of Monterey pines. Back in 1929, Bobby Jones, who had come to California to play in the U. S. Amateur at Pebble Beach, found the time to get in two rounds at the newly-opened Cypress Point layout. Asked what he thought of the two courses, Jones, with his usual acumen and diplomacy, replied, ‘Pebble Beach is more difficult, but Cypress Point is more fun.’”
John Sabino is the author of How to Play the World’s Most Exclusive Golf Clubs
During May 2011 I had the luck of being invited to play Cypress with 3 friends, unaccompanied. We had a blast and it will always be one of my best golfing experiences. 5 exact years later, during a trip to Pebble Beach with 44 customers I had the chance to play it again, with my friend Lucas and very kind Member Gary. 5 years ago I was already there and just had to drive 10mins from the Hotel, this time it was totally different and I arrived just in time to tee off with no time for lunch or even hitting a couple of balls.
On May 19th I departed from Buenos Aires to San Francisco via Miami, My plane was scheduled to arrive to SFO 10:30am but it was delayed and arrived 11:15am. Once I got the rental car and put the course on the GPS, the arrival time was 1:45pm which was 15 mins after my tee time!!! I took it calmly and speeding just a little bit managed to arrive 1:28pm, just with enough time to change my shoes and hit a couple of putters before the round started. Lucas and Gary were already there and 1:40 the round started. It was a very different round from 2011, on a sunny and windy day, but with the experience of Gary having one story after another about the history of the course. It was a miracle but after that long trip, driver and PW to 2 feet for birdie on 1. The rest of the round was good but not the putting, a very decent 77 goes as a nice memory of the golf. But the most important part of the story is the details and stories Cypress gives you in a 3h15mins round of golf (yes, that was our pace of play!).
On #2 Gary told us the story about the guy living there who was offered an obscene amount of money for his house and simply said “No, this is my home and I plan to live here the rest of my life”. On #4 I told Lucas the detail of the bunkers: if you look back from the green you will not see the bunkers and not even have a clue where they stand, it is one of the secrets of Mackenzie´s work which he learned during the war.
Walking #5 I learned something I missed in 2011: that year we played all 18 without a single byte of food, but this time Gary showed us where this little house is standing between 6th tee and 10th green where you can grab fruit, cookies, drinks, water and chips. You just grab what you need and take it with you, nobody stops and is one of the secrets of such a fast and nice pace of play.
During the play of #10 he told us the story about the Club Championship. Cypress doesn’t have actual Tournaments and the Club Championship is played in a very particular way: On a weekend in September they play 18 holes on a Saturday and after that the best 16 play one more round to define the 4 qualified for the semis. On Sunday they play all 4 together but each match is played separate. Once they finish the 2 winners match their scorecards to see who is the Club Champion, so you really are playing 3 matches at the time. After that a Barbecue is celebrated in the barn at the left of #11. Relaxed, enjoyable, without drama, that is how golf is supposed to be for amateurs!
When we came to #15 Gary told me and showed me the original tee for the hole, which is left of the current one and shorter. It was changed because it didn´t have such nice views, but it is still there and every now and then it is used.
Finally the moment came: tee shot at #16. Again a bad swing as in 2011 but again it landed safe over the water, this time it was a bogey. Lucas hit a perfect driver to the green but couldn’t 2-putt from 15mts. It is weird, you dream all the night with the shot and when there you get so adrenalinic that you can’t hit it nice! In 2011 I had a mulligan, this time it was not possible.
The round came to an end and I have to say that despite being very fast, we enjoyed it a lot. After that we took some time at the Proshop and to walk around the Club House taking pictures of the fantastic terrace they have at the left of #18.
A great experience and I am grateful of having been able to do it for a second time. Maybe next time I take less pictures and can focus on playing golf!
After final confirmation that we were all set to go, we set off from Monterey early morning down 17 Mile Drive, one of the most scenic drives in the world. You can see the 1st hole, 2nd tee shot, 13th green and 14th tee shot from the road, and if you peek through the trees, you can catch a glimpse of the 15th green. These views certainly got us in the mood! One factor of the club is that the only sign for the course is on the turning – the famous sign saying ‘Cypress Point Members Only’, which gives you an idea on the intentions of the club. This is a place which prefers to remain anonymous and available for its members and guests only … members of the public are turned away if they don’t have permission. It’s what makes it so special to play, but also what makes it so frustrating for the majority of golfers who dream of playing here.
The 1st tee is little more than 3 or 4 paces from the pro shop & locker rooms, so you usually have an audience of around 15-20 people watching your first tee shot, which has to carry over the main road and over a hedge down to the wide fairway below. Caddies are compulsory and one is assigned to 2 bags. Our caddie on the day had been there for 25 years and proved invaluable in giving directions and lines, plus he was extremely friendly and relayed various stories of years gone by, which only added to the experience.
The course itself is as strategic as they come. Bunkers always appear where you don’t want them, the greens are lightning quick and have severe slopes, especially on the shorter par 4’s, and the fairways are extremely generous … you won’t lose many balls on the first 14 holes at least. It’s all about the angles into the green on the 2nd shot, and Alister MacKenzie was a master in making the greens look further away and smaller than they actually are. Also, the flagsticks are slightly smaller than normal, which only adds to the ‘distant’ nature of the approach shots. You find yourself aiming away from the flags and into the wider parts of the greens, especially when the pins are tucked away. It’s easy to make par but very difficult to make birdie, something that has always been said about one of his other courses, Augusta National.
After a cracking 1st hole, where you drive down into the wide fairway with the edge of the Pacific in view, and a nasty green that slopes heavily from back to front (stay short of the flag), you head into the woods on the 2nd, the longest hole on the course and a difficult carry over a sandy canyon. After a decent par 3 3rd hole, the course really starts with the 4th, where the tee shot tries to push you towards the trees on the right, leaving you blocked out with your approach to the green, which is also sloped back to front. Any downhill putt on these greens must be treated with extreme caution, as the ball never seems to stop rolling … I barely breathed on a 20 footer at 4 and it ran 10 feet by. The 5th is a par 5 uphill in the thick of the woods (and the furthest point from the clubhouse) with loads of bunkers everywhere, the 6th is a reachable par 5 and the 7th is a short par 3 into the dunes surrounded by sand. All very nice holes, but you feel like you’re waiting to see what the course has to offer at this point.
So you stand on the 8th tee, looking back towards the clubhouse, and all you can see is sand and a tiny sliver of fairway on the left. This is one of the great par 4’s in golf, 330 yards uphill, a sharp dog-leg left to right with sandy waste area to the right. Miss it right and you can only hack back to the fairway, miss it left and you have a long shot to an uphill green with a huge step in it. The flag was back left at the top of the slope, with about 15 feet of landing area, one of the narrowest parts to a green I have seen. There were deep bunkers short and bushes (& more sand) over the back, with a huge drop off to the left … in other words, if you don’t hit a perfect shot, you’re making 5 or 6 at best. My caddie told me to play for the front right of the green, and after talking myself out of going for the flag, I did as I was told, made a good 2-putt up the green from 40 feet, and was the only person walking off with less than a 6. Brilliant hole.
The 9th is another short par 4, only 300 yards off the back tees and usually into the wind, and although I hit a driver just short and got up & down for a 3 (my only birdie of the day), this is another cracker of a short hole. The widest part of the fairway is around 180-200 yards from the tee, the fairways is completely surrounded by sand, some of it deep, and the green is again heavily sloped from back to front – anything past the flag will run off the front of the green and about 30 yards down the fairway. 10 and 11 give you a bit of a respite, 10 is a short par 5 with a wide fairway and a decent-sized green, 11 has a large bunker in the middle of the fairway but you have room to the left to hit round and there are no horrors on the green itself.
The 12th, after hitting your tee shot towards the clubhouse once again, bends sharply right, and it’s now that you start hitting back towards the Pacific and heading back towards civilisation, and the course steps up another gear again. The 2nd shot is on an upslope to a narrow green, and again, you don’t want to miss it left or right, but leaving it short is ok. The 13th is a brilliant hole, with at least a 50/60 yard wide fairway, but you need to hit it down the right, and of course that is where all the trouble is. The green is again small, which it should be for a shortish par 4, and close to the Pacific, so you can hear the seals barking away, and the road, so you can see all the cars with their drivers looking at you, thinking ‘lucky b*****d’! The 14th tee is above the 13th green and the road, with the 1st fairway to your left … miss it right and you are blocked out by the trees, miss it left and you have no shot. The 2nd shot has no margin for error – the green is in a private glade surrounded entirely by bushes and trees, so even though you are right by the main road, you feel totally secluded and private … one of the best spots on the course.
Now for one of the best walks in golf – crossing the road from the 14th green past the ‘Private Keep Out’ signs and the fencing, and up to the 15th tee. A lot is said about the 16th, but this was my favourite shot on the course – around 140 yards to a narrow green surrounded by sand and the Pacific on the right. The wind seems to pick up here as well – we played 14 in a light breeze, and 15 into a 20-25mph wind! There is some space on the left if you miss the green, but the chip is down the green and tough to stop. Once leaving the green, you walk through various trees for 100 yards before you hit the 16th tee and one of the most famous views in golf. At 231 yards off the back tees, and with a small green, Pacific Ocean left and right, and a huge bunker over the back, you have 2 options – take a 7 or 8 iron and play for the fairway down the left near the tree, or hit a 3 wood (or driver) and hope for the best. I somehow managed to hit my best 3 wood of the holiday onto the back of the green and 2 putted for a 3, and it is a great hole, but in my opinion it’s a bit too difficult … it’s either green or oblivion, unless you play it as a par 4. But what a feeling to stand there on the tee … you feel genuinely speechless looking at the green, having looked at it countless times online or in magazines, and it looks better in real life (and the green looks smaller!).
The best view of all is on the 17th tee – you look back down the 16th and part of the 15th to your left, and ahead of you is the fairway and cypress trees in the middle, with the ocean and rocks to your right. The hole itself is tough – you have to either hit it left of the trees, which is a big hit off the back tees, or you lay up around 40-50 yards short of them, leaving around 170 yards for your 2nd shot either over the trees or around them to the green. Again, anything right is into the Pacific. And if you over-compensate to the left, there are low-lying trees and bushes waiting for you, so you can only chip out to the fairway. Into the wind, this is a really tough hole. And you finish on 18 – loads of people don’t like it, and I can see why … you have to hit over a tree with your tee shot, but no more than 200 yards, leaving yourself the best angle to the green. Anything left is blocked out by the trees encroaching just short of the green, anything right leaves you with no shot but a chip out. And the 2nd shot is very much uphill to another narrow green with a steep slope back to front, so you can’t see where your ball ends up. It feels completely different to the rest of the course, and although it’s a good golf hole in its own right, it feels like an after-thought to what has gone on before.
In terms of cost for playing here, it cost me around $250, this includes green fee, caddie fee and tip … compared to the cost at Pebble Beach, it’s a bargain! It’s a truly special place, where you feel privileged to be there, and we didn’t really want to leave at the end. A busy day there is 8-10 groups on the course, so you have no-one in front of you and no-one pressuring you from behind, leaving you free to concentrate on your game and enjoying the scenery. The course was in immaculate condition, with hardly a blade of grass out of place, the houses surrounding the course are all at a discreet distance away, so it’s almost impossible to hit out of bounds, and the elevation changes are gentle apart from the 1st and 18th.
In terms of spectacular coastline golf, Pebble Beach has the better stretch of holes (4-10 & 18) in my opinion, but Cypress Point gives you a much more rich & rewarding golfing experience. Every shot, every putt, demands your total attention. I feel truly fortunate to play here and I sincerely hope many more readers of this site get the chance to play, because it really is an experience like no other.
Alister MacKenzie, one of golf’s great architects, designed Cypress Point in 1928. Even though it breaks many of the basic tenets of golf course design – the first hole plays across a road I’m sure didn’t exist in 1928, and there are two back-to-back par 5’s on the front nine and two back-to-back par 3’s on the back nine – Cypress Point ranks consistently in the Top 5 of every golf publication’s top courses list. Robert Louis Stevenson once said, “Monterey Peninsula is the most felicitous meeting of land and sea in creation.” Its emerald-green fairways wind through the rugged hills and dunes of the Monterey Peninsula lined with beautiful pine and cypress trees. Many deer and elk call these fairways and greens home. There are three par 5’s on the front nine and all are risky, though not long. Holes 8 and 9 are on everyone’s list of great par 4’s. Number 8 is a 345-yard, 90-degree dogleg right, cut through the rolling dunes to a plateau green. Number 9 is less than 300 yards, but 300 of the most challenging yards in golf, especially when the wind is blowing, as it usually is. Larry Berle.
For me Cypress Point is the most expensive course I’ve ever played and yet the green fee was free. The caddy fee was $150 (my half, he had two bags, no problem), however, in order to accept the invite I had to change my plane ticket back to Amsterdam where I live, it wasn’t changeable, $1500 later I had a new return ticket a day later. On top of that I didn’t properly request permission from my now ex-fiancée before booking my trip, a fit was raised, there was no understanding and as a result no more relationship. Sad but true, I bet there isn’t a single golfer reading this that wouldn’t of understood how special this opportunity was and granted at least a hint of understanding. Thanks guys! Honestly, I’ll happily break off the next wedding as well if she won’t understand the need for me to accept the Augusta/Pine Valley invites if and when they come. I mean I would clearly understand the multiple long weekend shopping trips to Milan as a matter of exchange.
I attended a member/guest day, starting with drinks and lunch, our game and then cocktails after we finished. Expecting a good sized group I was rather shocked that there were a total of three guests (2 golfers) and 5 members that attended. Three of which my host had invited just to join for lunch because he had a guest from overseas. What an honor! Among them were a famous golf historian and wonderful gentleman and ex Cypress Point pro who shares the course record of 63 with Ben Hogan. At 41 years old I was the baby of the group, my host was 92 years young at time. The rich history and stories were flowing throughout, I just sat back and soaked it all up from gentlemen that had experienced it all first hand.
As prep for my round I had read ”The Match” by Mark Frost which depicts one of the most important golf matches of all time between pros, Byron Nelson and Ben Hogan against amateurs Harvey Ward and Ken Venturi which takes place at Cypress Point. A must read for golf fans. The round itself, well Cypress Point is amazing, the course plays much like the reading of a great novel that builds slowly to an amazing climax, the first 6 holes winding their way through the coastal pine forest with the next 6 holes running through the dunes only to reach an amazing climax unique in the golf world with the last holes all running near or along the ocean. We had a perfect day, beautiful blue skies and a light 1-2 club breeze blowing.
Upon reaching the 15th hole I was already in awe and while as previously mentioned it was but a short iron. I believe I hit a 9 myself on the day into the wind. It’s the most beautiful golf hole I’ve ever seen. The 16th makes your heart beat in your throat, hitting straight into the wind. It was arguably a driver on our day, 231 yds plus a 2 club breeze into your face. I chose a 3 wood and decided to give it a bit more. Unlike the chaps below that all seem to hit the ball to a tap in distance on this tough hole I pulled mine left, tough to control the adrenaline rush. Luckily for me the ice plant stopped it from going off the cliff to the left of the green. I chunked it out and escaped with a bogey. My provisional ended on the front right side of the green. All the gentlemen I played with also made bogeys by taking McKenzie’s alternative route to the left which allows you to play the hole as a par 4 with only a 100 yard carry to a partially blind fairway.
It was however on the 17th tee box that I was struck by the hand of golf enlightenment and had an emotional moment I am sure will not soon be equaled. Standing on the tee box perched atop the rock outcropping surrounded by the Pacific with waves crashing all around and sea lions barking a group of whales breached off to our right and it hit me that was one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen in all my travels. A truly emotional moment, I hung back from the group to take it all in, every one to the man understood and claimed to be honored with my reaction, after all that may well be the desired effect of this masterpiece and as MacKenzie stated there will never be a another course graced with the magical natural surroundings with which he had to work with.
An amazing round of golf for me is much more than playing well on a nice course, I shot a 79 on the day which wasn’t great and even missed my put to win our match on the last hole, tough with tears in your eyes I must admit. At Cypress Point it was the total experience, the camaraderie, the history, the beauty, the course itself, the service and welcome, my game on the day and the emotional impact that made this the greatest round of golf in my life.
Some days later and after knowing my schedule for the show, I emailed Marie with possible dates to play CP and just a couple of hours later I got the confirmation for a fourball on May 23rd! What is even better is that I could invite some friends to share the unique experience. So I got in contact with Alberto Agrest, a lifetime friend living in NY and who invited me to play Winged Foot and National Links of America some years ago and also told him to invite his 17 year old son Tommy, who is also a scratch golfer. Juan Pablo De Bary, golfing mate from Buenos Aires, completed the fourball. Just as an addition, we played all together Black Horse, Pasatiempo and Spyglass as well, not a bad golfing trip at all!!!!
The night before I was so anxious I could hardly sleep thinking all the time on the moment we arrived to tee 16th, the most famous spot on the Golf Course. We arrived very early to Cypress, around 7:15am and after some short warming up at the putting green and changing shoes at the locker room, we started the adventure of playing an authentic jewel. The Club House is charming and simple, as well as the small proshop in which you can find a big variety of stuff to buy as a lifetime memory from your visit to this golfing meca. The course is a masterpiece in every aspect: design, shape, variety, landscaping, views … everything gets together to make your round a big star in your golfing life.
The course can be divided into 4 parts: the first 6 holes in which you play inside the forest, but where you find lots of different challenges as the 2nd shot on par 5 5th, the tee shot on par 5 2nd or tee shot to par 3 7th in which you have to be really very precise. The second part is when you first play towards the sea at tee 8th and tee 9th, two really very interesting tee shots and even harder approaches, then you have easy par 5 10th as an impasse to 4 consecutive par 4s where you can destroy your round. Actually I gave it all between 11 and 13: after a slow start I birdied 9th and 10th to stand 1 over par at tee 11th and then my caddie Marty said “Here is where the golf course begins” and he was right as I gave 7 shots on those 3 holes!!
In this spot Marty my caddie told me the best story of the day: young Andy Bean was 7 under (32 on front nine plus eagle on 10) on the AT&T Pro-am on a day of very strong wind we he was told to try not to spoil his round in the wind, “I saw it all” was his answer. The story ends with a 13 over 48 on the back nine including that eagle, amazing!!!! Something similar happened to me and it was really disappointing as I dreamed to score a good round, but sometimes this happens. After two good shots and a narrow birdie miss on 14th we followed to the last, best and nicest part of the course.
The walk to tee 15th is adrenalinic, once you climb those last steps you stand in the all life dreamed spot in golf. Those 4 last holes are not only nice but also challenging and in different way: 15th is a short iron but surroundings can really distract you (hit the green and 2 putts for par), 16th is the bravest carry I have ever faced (together with 13th hole at Punta Espada in Cap Cana) where I narrowly missed the green but up and down for par (I also hit a mulligan and got it towards 20 feet from the pin), then 17th is a panoramic but not that tough drive (driver, 58° and 2 putts for par) and finally 18th a very nice tee box by the sea heading to a very nice uphill par 4 with a very elevated green, another par for the nicest walk I ever made playing golf.
What else can I say? I keep as a memory the scorecard, yardage book, the club rules, the invitation letter and some stuff bought at the small and charming proshop. If you are ever lucky to play this course, try not to get too distracted with the atmosphere and views, try to play golf!!! When I got some concentration I hit really good shots, but every now and then distraction and too many pictures cost me a lot of strokes. If it happens that I am invited again, I will not take my camera, and I will try only to hit a couple of decent golf shots and not to lose focus. An unforgettable golf round, a lifetime achievement, the chance of breathing the truest possible golf experience, the chance to watch a masterpiece in design, the opportunity to be an elite golfer for one day, to listen to the best golfing stories in the last century … CYPRESS POINT IS ALL THAT TOGETHER!!!
Like many before and many to follow, I gifted the Pacific yet another ball after it cannoned off the cliff face, just a couple of feet below the green. Despite my heroic attempt failing, this was the most exhilarating and fulfilling experience of my golfing life. Of course it’s not a purist’s par 3, as you need to be a long-hitter and a straight long-hitter at that, just to have a chance of making the green in regulation. The 16th is pure fantasy and the feeling as I emerged from the cluster of Cypress trees to see the most glorious sight in golf will stay with me for the rest of my life.
Make no mistake though, the holes leading up to and following the fabled par 3, are far from a support act. In my opinion, this is the most perfect golf course on earth, with eighteen beautifully-crafted holes forming Alister Mackenzie’s most thrilling progression of twists and turns. Unlike many of its neighbours, Cypress Point does not boast a palatial clubhouse. It is a relatively small building with its locker room appearing unchanged in a hundred years and a tiny pro shop, with odds and ends of club merchandise crammed-in on rails and tables. Whilst guests are not allowed in the clubhouse without being accompanied by a member, I found all of the staff and caddies to be incredibly friendly and welcoming. Their guidance was crucial at the 1st tee, where a six-foot hedge stands between you and the fairway. Only after emerging from behind this obstacle does it truly feel like you are on the course.
The par 4 1st serves as a gentle introduction before McKenzie tests you with the longest hole on the course, a tricky par 5 which climbs steadily away from the ocean and towards the forest. The 3rd is a relatively straightforward par 3, requiring a decent mid to high iron shot to avoid a series of sprawling bunkers, which will punish anything falling short and right. Following a tight tee-shot on the par 4 4th hole, you journey into the forest and face a tricky uphill approach into an undulating green. It feels like a different course here, as the tall Monterey Pines grow denser and narrow the fairways on surely the best back-to-back par 5s to be found anywhere. The 5th hole perfectly divides each one of your shots to the green with three distinct plateaus, separated by steep uphill climbs and classic McKenzie bunker complexes. Number six curves gently to the left and swoops softly down back towards the dunes, with a long and narrow bunker cleverly-positioned behind the green to deter longer hitters blasting a 3-wood at the pin. These par 5s are designed to be played as such and with steady, straight shots, I managed to play them in regulation. The tree-lined fairways and measured terrain changes test your accuracy before progressing onto the dunes, where the par 3 7th leads onto a ledge, from which you hit a blind tee shot on the dog-leg 8th over a monstrous dune. It is not necessary to shape your shot left to right here, but simply to take a line from the caddie and hit a straight drive which will set you up for a short iron or wedge up to the T-shaped green.
The 9th tee provides one of the great vistas of Cypress point, looking over the picturesque bunkering around the 13th green with the Pacific Ocean in the background. 9, 10 and 11 all present choices on line and length to be made from the tee, but the way in which the holes lie mean you can map out your route to the green, without any blind shots to contend with. McKenzie’s philosophy on minimising blind shots is then displayed alongside his belief that a course should utilise natural beauty, as the 12th and 13th feature remarkable examples of bunkers blending seamlessly into sand dunes.
Cue scene change again, as you leave the dunes behind and begin the stunning sequence of ocean holes. A wide open fairway on 14 invites you to open your shoulders before steering your approach shot through a narrow gap in the Cypress trees to a small green which slopes significantly back to front. Now onto the most idyllic and thrilling three-hole progression in the world, due in large part to the incredible scenery, dramatic cliffs and invigorating ocean breeze. The way in which McKenzie utilised the jagged coastline here though is nothing short of genius. Only Amen Corner at Augusta National can come anywhere close to the notoriety of this trio. With back-to-back par 3s at 15 and 16, you are challenged by tee shots over gushing waves and families of seals on the rocks below, but also by undulating greens and intricate bunkers which drain balls from the edge of the putting surface.
Despite being the shortest hole on the course with the highest stroke index, I would argue that the 15th is far from the easiest. A short and high flight is required to battle with the ocean wind off the tee and no less than eight bunkers surround Cypress Point’s smallest green. It presents a totally different set of challenges to the 16th, which requires a solid fairway wood or even driver, for most amateurs to consider getting close to the green. The 17th then gives no respite as it demands yet another tee shot across the ocean to a fairway aligned tightly with the cliff-top. However, the biggest hazard here is a clump of trees which break up the direct route to the green. They force a choice of playing safely around to the left, or flirting with another steep drop into the water by cutting the corner from the right of the fairway. Whilst my approach came up short of the green here, I was saved from losing another ball by a greenside bunker with a thirty-foot drop from its back lip onto the rocks below.
Before playing Cypress Point, I had seen the 18th described as little more than a walk back to the clubhouse and the one weakness in McKenzie’s masterpiece. I beg to differ, as it is perhaps only because of the dramatic progression leading up to the final hole that a golfer leaves slightly disappointed with the finale. The 18th actually requires precise placement off the tee, where a drive to the left half of the fairway will set up a straight shot up through the tight chute of tall Cypress trees to the green. After watching my trademark fade/slice return on this hole though, I was left with no line to the green and had to play sideways before making my approach. The final green slopes consistently back to front and sits in the shadow of the understated green and white clubhouse. Faced with a long putt here, I pictured Ben Hogan draining his lengthy birdie effort in 1956, when he set the course record of 63 which still stands today. Try telling the ‘Hawk’ that the 18th is a stroll back to the clubhouse!
Granted, the vast majority of golfers will only ever dream of playing Cypress Point. I count myself as immensely privileged to have been invited through the gates to experience the majesty of Monterey’s crown jewel. The vivid detail I have recounted in this review bears testament to the elation and excitement on every hole. Cypress Point filled me with a sense of awe that I am sure no other golf course on earth could match.