Golf was first played on a 9-hole course constructed by owners of the Pump House Hotel near the lake at the splendid little spa town of Llandrindod Wells back in 1890. The town council was forced to close the course fifteen years later, however, as it became too dangerous for visitors using the common ground.
Once 140 acres of land at Little Hill had been acquired, overlooking the lake and the town, the then four-time Open Champion Harry Vardon (he would go on to win another two Opens) was enlisted to design a new 18-hole course. And what a grand opening there was in May 1907 when all three of the Great Triumvirate – Vardon, James Braid and John Henry Taylor – came to Llandrindod Wells Golf Club, along with local professional George Humble.
James Braid returned to the club in the mid-1930s to upgrade the course and he duly submitted plans for improvement and his invoice for eleven guineas.
Nothing much has changed in more than 80 years since the fairways were first shaped by pick, shovel, wheel barrow and horse drawn cart. The grazing sheep have been removed, trees planted and a small irrigation reservoir installed to water the greens in the summer but the course as it was then is as it is now – without a single sand bunker on any of its 18 holes.
The course measures only 5,759 yards and features a number of old-fashioned design traits, including back-to-back par threes at the 10th and 11th holes, a number of blind holes and several short par fours – five of the nine two-shot holes on the card are under the 350-yard mark.
Many feel the best is kept until last at the driveable “Death or Glory” 18th hole. With a deep ravine between tee and green, do you play safe and lay up or try to reach the other side of a 250-yard carry with one mighty smite?
Llandrindod Wells is a lovely old course laid out across an attractive and undulating piece of moorland. As with near neighbour Kington, the lack of total yardage and sand bunkers does little to dilute the challenge as there are so many changes in elevation to contend with. Add in the many humps, hollows, gorse bushes, and even some iron age mounding and you have an interesting and enjoyable round of golf for a relatively small green fee.
The first begins with an uphill par four which has a smallish, flat landing area at around 200 yards. The blind approach continues upwards, aiming at a marker post behind the green. Not the best of openers maybe but after a short par three, we arrive at the splendid par five 3rd "Roon the Ben" with its breathtaking views across the course and beyond. From here on in we are taken on an enthralling roller coaster ride through bracken, gorse, silver birch and pine in the most picturesque of locations.
I very much liked the difficult 5th "Long Four" which despite cantering downhill from tee to green demands two excellent shots, and the picturesque 8th, the approach feeding in between two sizeable mounds to a beautifully situated green. Following the tricky 9th with OOB running down the full length of the hole we arrive at back to back par threes. The 10th is a monster at 236 yards with the unusual iron age earth workings coming into play and the 11th "Armchair", although much shorter, has a sloping green with a nasty false front to avoid.
After solid back to back par fives at 14 and 15 we come to a good finishing stretch. The 16th is a cracking drop hole, the boundary wall narrowing the fairway the further you progress and the 17th, the sixth and final par three, must be struck uphill over a rocky outcrop to a raised green.
The appropriately named "Death or Glory" is a fittingly named conclusion to the round as you attempt to drive over a deep valley to a green sat almost 300 yards away. A drive of 230 yards may well give you a sight of the pin but anything less will often leave a blind approach from the valley floor.
On a cold winter's morning following a day of heavy rain I found free draining, springy turf underfoot and greens that were surprisingly fast and true. No, not every hole is memorable and inevitably there will be a few unkind bounces but Llandrindod Wells is well worth playing if you get an opportunity to do so.
Atop a large hill in Mid Wales, above the Victorian spa town of Llandrindod Wells, lays a topsy-turvy, rough-and-tumble, bags-of-fun sort of golf course.
It was originally laid out by six-times Open Champion Harry Vardon then subsequently altered by the prolific course designer James Braid (who only managed to win The Open on five occasions) and it gives us a glimpse into how golf was played a century ago.
And what a refreshing change this is to the many hundreds, if not thousands, of golf courses that have been built in Great Britain since then which offer little more than flat, tree-lined golf on poor soil with repetitive bunkering, uninteresting greens and the hand of man and machine at every turn.
Let’s be frank Llandrindod Wells doesn’t always offer great golf but it is completely at ease with itself, natural to the hilt, improvises brilliantly and, as you can probably tell by now, is far from conventional. And this is what makes it such a great golf course to play.
Once we get to the summit of the hill – more on that later – we find ourselves on tight yet springy upland turf, rolypoly terrain with spots of gorse, clusters of fine trees and marker posts aplenty. We don’t always know where we are heading but there is always a pole to guide us. It goes without saying the views are fantastic.
The regular visitor will know of all the speed-slots and kick-slopes that they can use to their advantage in order to manoeuvre a golf ball towards its intended target over the rolling hills and banks. The first-timer may get lucky, or they may not, but are still able to marvel at it all.
The greens across the entire property are engaging with some good slopes and tilts to them with several having a false front which makes judging approach shots more difficult, especially in the inevitable wind which blows at this elevated location.
There is timelessness to Llandrindod Wells and although hidden away in the belly of Wales it is worth seeking out if natural golf is your calling.
Ed is the founder of Golf Empire – click the link to read his full review.
This pretty well nails it. I've lost count of the number of times I have played a more modern golf course and ended up thinking 'would rather have played Llandrindod Wells'
Llandrindod Wells is a real surprise package and in the truest definition of a hidden gem it represents one of Wales best kept secrets. The trip to Powys is a trek for most, but the joy of playing this course makes that journey very worthwhile. You are faced with a mountain styled course overlooking the delightful spa town of the same name. We were bowled over by firstly its location and the views that span in all directions and this alone makes the endeavour worthwhile. Though for the golfing aficionado you have a course which is justified in being ranked as one of the best in Wales with great elevation change and essentially a moorland type experience with many holes beautifully framed and lined with coppices of trees and gorse/fern that can only be created from this most natural of habitats.
If I was honest the first two holes start slowly with an awkward and largely unappealing uphill par 4 but one that needs to be climbed to experience the remainder of the course. Dispense then with the straightforward par 3 second and begin to enjoy the unfolding pleasure of the next 16 holes that will hold your attention throughout. The 3rd hole epitomises the picturesque nature and challenge of many of the holes. You are faced with driving over a valley to a semi sloping fairway squeezed by pine tress on both sides. You realise from this point forward that you have to be creative around the greens for whilst there are no bunkers on the course you have plenty of humps, bumps and hollows to figure out.
This course is on the "shortish" side at less that 6000 yards but it makes no difference to its enjoyment for the challenge of Llandrindod is not its length but it unique mix of demanding and exhilarating holes. The 5th is the longest par 4 (460 yards and S.I. 1) and it plays back across and slightly down the hill making a long second shot reachable to a blind green. The 7th and 8th play back and forth with the 8th set to a gorgeous little green surrounded by the trademark birch and pine trees. Approaching the turn, the 9th, affectionately known as “bunny turn” takes you to the highest point of the course and will demand another long iron to find the green. The great par 4’s on the way out are separated by a number of one shot holes that do not have the benefit of seeing the base of the pin.
As you turn for home though you face the challenge of “kitchen” (not sure from where its name derives??), a 236yard par 3 with a narrow entry to a relatively small green and it is certainly unusual to find a short hole of this length particularly from the yellow tees, but rightly assessed as S.I.2. From this point to the finish every hole is pure golfing pleasure with the benefit of slowly traversing back down toward the clubhouse and hence experiencing the joy of a number of elevated tee shots and further drives “down dale and across valley”. Two good par 5’s on the way in give some balance to the par of 69 and then a finishing stretch of the highest order with “Y Pant” being a long par 4 driving down hill from a further elevated tee with the second to a funnelled green with bracken being a tangled grave on each side of the fairway and around the green.
The 17th makes up the 6th par 3 before the pleasure of finishing the round with the signature hole which Harry Varden named “Death and Glory”. 270 yards for a par 4 seems fairly unassuming but with the possibility of carrying to the apron of the green on the other side of the most dramatic of gully’s is a fitting end to this wonderful course. Play the safe option of course and you will have a blind approach with a wedge, clearly no fun with that option whatsoever! This is certainly a famous and dramatic closing hole and rounded the experience off in greatest style.
We certainly heap huge praise on Llandrindod Wells. This is not a “championship style” golf course and may not be as cultured as some of the more illustrious names on our Welsh listings. It well though leave you joyous to have experienced an ingenious golfing test and I can guarantee that boredom will not be an issue!! Ian Henley