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Muirfield is the course of “The Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers” (HCEG), the world’s oldest golf club—according to direct written evidence—formed in 1744. In those days, the members played over Leith Links, originally a five-hole course. In March 1744, the first official rules of golf were drawn up by the “Gentlemen Golfers of Leith” in readiness for a tournament which was due to be played over Leith Links the following month. These original 13 rules became the basis for the game of golf and shortly afterwards, the HCEG was formed.
Almost 150 years later, in 1891, the course at Muirfield opened for play. Old Tom Morris designed it, originally as a 16-holer. A further two holes were added a few months later. In 1928, Harry Colt and Tom Simpson were brought in to make alterations to the layout. Many golf historians believe that the course became truly great as a consequence of the changes made by Colt and Simpson.
The design layout is a masterpiece and highly unusual for links courses of this era. Most courses were laid out simply, nine out and nine back. Muirfield is different; it was the first to be designed with two concentric rings of nine holes. The outward nine holes run clockwise around the edge and the inward nine run anti-clockwise, sitting inside the outward nine. The layout ensures that the wind hits you from all directions, but Muirfield is as difficult to play downwind as it is upwind.
Host to fifteen Opens, most recently in 2013, Muirfield is considered by many top professionals to be one of the fairest Open Championship golf courses. Bernard Darwin loved Muirfield, and in his 1910 book, The Golf Courses of the British Isles, he wrote: “There is a fine view of the sea and a delightful sea wood, with the trees all bent and twisted by the wind; then, too, it is a solitary and peaceful spot, and a great haunt of the curlews, whom one may see hovering over a championship crowd and crying eerily amid a religious silence.”
Muirfield is blessed with a collection of superb golf holes and we'll mention a couple of them: The 554-yard par five 9th hole is a tough driving hole, two bunkers lurk on the left-hand side and beyond them is a grey stone boundary wall with out-of-bounds threatening the hooked tee shot; the fairway cruelly starts to narrow at the landing area of a good solid drive, the tangly rough waiting hopefully to catch anything struck off-line. The second shot must avoid a waiting line of five cleverly placed bunkers situated short and right of the green. The 13th is one of best short holes on the open circuit, an uphill 191-yarder; five abysmal bunkers, three on the right and two on the left ferociously protect the deep and narrow green that slopes from back to front. Whatever we do, we mustn’t leave a scary downhill putt.
Muirfield is an eccentric but traditional golf links of the highest calibre. The fairways have that lovely spongy seaside turf, there’s some unbelievable bunkering (many of which are small and deep) and there’s that thick, thick rough to contend with. The greens are relatively small too, which makes you think carefully about your approach shots and once you are safely on the putting surface, you’ll need to interpret them well because the borrows are subtle and tricky to read.
In readiness for the 2013 Open Championship, following a land swap with next-door neighbour the Renaissance Club, Muirfield was lengthened, with new tees added on seven holes. Now measuring 7,192 yards from the tips, with par set at 71, Muirfield has become a stern 21st century challenge, especially when the wind blows.
I can honestly say I have never been more excited for a day of golf than I was for 36 holes at the Honorable Company of Edinburgh Golfers in October 2020. I had read reviews on here where a 6-ball rating was given more or less every time. I had watched coverage from Open championships; from Phil’s win which I watched in person as a 15 year old with my dad, to Faldo’s 18 par final round in 1987, learning each hole and creating a map in my head.
It is no surprise that Muirfield has the most decorated list of Champion Golfers, such is the test of golf it provides. Nicklaus, Watson, Trevino, Player, Braid, Cotton, Hagen, Hilton, Vardon, Els, Faldo and Mickelson have all lifted the Claret Jug in front of the famous clubhouse. The club has also hosted Walker Cups, Curtis Cups, a Ryder Cup and over a dozen British Amateurs making it arguably one of the most decorated championship courses in the world. All of these events are proudly shown off in the magnificent clubhouse, along with trophies and gifts presented by Shinnecock Hills, Augusta National, Royal Melbourne and other prestigious clubs from around the world. It is obvious when examining the walls and trophy cabinets that you are on the grounds of a very special club.
All of this is for good reason of course. Whilst the club is soaked in tradition and history, the course offers a fair test of golf over one of the best layouts in the game. The famous clockwise front nine works its way around the perimeter of the property, with the back nine weaving effortlessly inside it. Constant changes of direction make judging the wind crucial but difficult, and it is the first time I have ever played a course where angles and strategy matter on every shot, making it a 4-hour exercise in precision and patience.
I think it is important to know what to expect when playing at Muirfield, and I can sympathise when people say it is too flat or the views aren’t great. Of course, if you turn up expecting the undulation of Sandwich or the views of Turnberry, you will be disappointed as Muirfield is a different style of links. There is however more land movement than it is given credit, and the views are also better than I expected. The far corner of the course where 5, 6, 11 and 12 meet is up on a hill which creates contours for at least half of the holes. Whilst some holes like 1, 10, 15 and 18 are very flat and may appear boring or featureless at first glace, they offer perfect strategy and are still a blast to play.
The very best holes in my opinion are 2, 6, 8, 9 and 13, with none of the 18 holes being worse than a ‘very good hole’. My favourite moment of the day came on 12 where I hit 8 iron off the tee, and stiffed a 9 iron to a foot for a kick in birdie on a wonderful par 4. As I walked off the green I realised it was the same hole that Phil Mickelson threw me his ball on Saturday of the 2013 Open. Everything had come full circle for me, from a kid watching the Open with his dad to being a golf course nut playing Muirfield 7 years later. My scorecard with a circled 3 on the 12th hole now sits proudly alongside Phil’s ball in my house, a happy reminder of two memories I will cherish forever.
Whilst I didn’t get to have the famous lunch due to Covid-19 restrictions, I had one of the best golfing experiences of my life at Muirfield. The lofty expectations I had set in my mind were easily surpassed and I urge people to visit and soak it all in. The HCEG is well deserved of its ranking in the world top 20, and is unquestionably one of the most magical places in all of golf.
Wow wow wow, what an experience, played with a friend last week in fairly mild conditions but Scottish standard and managed two rounds on the same day. From the moment you walk through the gate and walk into the club house you know you are somewhere special. The history of the club is amazing but the course lived up to my high expectations.
I tend to evaluate a course by its condition, difficulty and how memorable are the holes. In terms of my first two criteria, Muirfield is quite a treat.
This course has plenty of length and a player must hit quality shots or pay the price. In addition, the high native grasses are more penal than almost any other course I played in Scotland. I don’t know if the native grasses just grow higher in this region, or if Muirfield does something different to maintain them in such a manner. The golf course when I played was also impeccably maintained. The greens rolled as true as any I have ever played and the turf condition in the fairways was just about perfect all the way around.
Although I was told by someone prior that Muirfield really has no views, that is really not true in my opinion. Muirfield has beautiful views of the North Sea, Firth of Forth and the hillsides that lay to the north toward St Andrews and Perth. But as far as memorable golf holes at Muirfield, I would have to say there are none that really stand out. Most holes are very straight forward and they are realistically all great golf holes. So maybe it’s more like 18 memorable holes on a fantastic golf course, because I will never forget playing here and Muirfield is certainly one of the best in the world.
The Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers holds the claim of being the oldest verifiable organized golf club in the world. Although the game itself is several centuries older, the club’s records date back to 1744, when it produced the thirteen original Rules of Golf for its first competition, which was played at Leith Links for the Silver Club. The Company played on the five holes at Leith Links for nearly a century, but overcrowding forced a move in 1836 to Musselburgh’s nine-hole Old Course, which was situated within a horse-racing track. The Musselburgh course would eventually be shared by four separate clubs and as a result, became too crowded for the liking of the Company members.
As a result, in 1891, the Company purchased The Howes, another old horse-racing track on the Archerfield Estate at Dirleton, leading cynics to claim that all the Company had done was move “from one race-course to another.” The course, called Muirfield, was designed by Old Tom Morris and within a year, it hosted its first Open Championship. This situation caused some ill feeling at Musselburgh, which lost the right to hold the Open from that point forward. This new course was met with wide approval from the start and has been modified and updated several times since, most significantly in the mid-1920’s by Harry S. Colt, who would introduce 14 new holes after the club purchased an additional 50 acres of land north of the existing course.
Muirfield has hosted 16 Open Championships and most recently, it was Phil Mickelson finally lifting the Claret Jug on these historic links back in 2013. Other winners at Muirfield include Nicklaus, Watson, Trevino, Player, Els, Faldo (twice), Vardon and Hagen. That is some list…
The club is unique for many reasons, one of which is due to the fact that the game most commonly played by members is foursomes, more commonly known as alternate shot. The club also was in the news for the wrong reasons in recent years due to the fact that it had a male-only membership policy, one that was finally abolished so that the club could maintain its spot in the Open rotation.
Muirfield is commonly ranked among the top five or ten courses in the world, with its distinctive routing and excellent bunkering being celebrated. A full day at Muirfield is one of the great experiences in golf and we were lucky enough to be playing our own ball in the morning, have the famous Muirfield lunch (jacket and tie absolutely mandatory) and then head back out for an alternate shot match in the afternoon, all while enjoying some of the finest weather during our entire trip.
I probably looked forward to this day more than any other on this particular trip and as such, I had incredibly high expectations for my day at Muirfield. I’m happy to say that those expectations were exceeded in every way. The club has a hard-earned reputation for being a tad formal and stuffy but we were welcomed with open arms from the moment we arrived and I felt completely comfortable both on and off the golf course.
And what a golf course this is! Muirfield is on the very short list of the most ingeniously bunkered golf courses in the world, with very well-defined edge work, some incredible artistic flair and most significantly, some of the most superb and strategic bunker positioning I’ve ever seen. There is great variety in shot values throughout and the greens are well-contoured, very well protected and all provide great interest both on the putting surfaces themselves and in the immediate surrounds.
The fact that this was accomplished on what would normally be considered a pretty routine and unremarkable piece of land, set well-away from the sea, further accentuates the greatness of the design.
The club is steeped in history and that’s never more apparent than when you are walking through the clubhouse and seeing the incredible artifacts lovingly displayed throughout. The locker room is a treat and as indicated, the famous Muirfield lunch is not to be missed.
That all said, it’s the golf course that shines above all else here.
Muirfield is famously private but accepts limited outside play on Tuesday and Thursdays, assuming you book well in advance. If you have the ability to plan ahead and have the means, a day at Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers is unquestionably one of the finest experiences you can have in this great game and comes with my highest recommendation.
For a full hole-by-hole profile and pictorial, please click on the link to visit Now on the Tee: https://nowontheteegolf.com/2019/03/20/muirfield/
Doesn't the Royal Burgess Golfing Society of Edinburgh pre-date the Men of Muirfield as the world's oldest?
It states 1735 on their logo ball I have one hand - admittedly not sure that this counts as verifiable evidence though in our era of fake news. There's probably also a group of Dutch Sailors somewhere with an even earlier claim
I was fortunate enough to play the course in the Scottish amateur championship in 2015. For me it was the toughest set up I’ve ever played. The par 4 6th hole in particular was played into off the left and was just horrible how hard it was. Probably the hardest hole I’ve ever played.
There’s not really a weak hole on the course. The par 3s are great as well. 18 is a brilliant finishing hole in front of the clubhouse. In my opinion, this along with Carnoustie are the best two courses in the country
The Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers, known modernly as Muirfield, is held in high regard among professionals and top amateurs as a brilliant test of golf. Muirfield is a true championship links that is also quite playable for the 15 handicap.
The atmosphere at HCEG is formal yet not overly snobby. Golfers are greeted warmly by the starter as they enter, and non-members are not hawked over as they prepare for their round and enjoy the historic (and recently renovated) clubhouse.
Opening holes certainly demand precision, but the course ramps up in difficulty by the middle of the outward nine. Hole 4 (230y par 3 from the championship tees) often plays into a prevailing wind. The green site is elevated with severe drop-offs to the left, right, and rear. A par is well-earned, and a deuce justifies kudos + a pint to celebrate following the round.
The highlight of the returning nine is more in its completeness than any single hole. Muirfield's assortment of world class three-shotters continues with Hole 13. Playing nearly parallel direction-wise to #4, #13 demands slightly more precision at a shorter distance. The green site is bowled by large mounds, but deep bunkers on either side prevent errant shots from funneling to the playing surface. A par is again well-earned given the green's significant movement from back-to-front with a collection area to the front right.
Hole 17, while brutal in length, offers a scoring opportunity to daring, long-hitters. Although eagle on the five-shot 17th is rare, birdie is attainable given a strong tee shot and well-placed second. The most penalising bunkers on the course guard the layup landing area, and are best left alone. Good rounds are either saved or lost on this hole.
Hole 18, which seemingly lengthens with each new open, now plays nearly 500 yards from the tips. The clubhouse sits on the horizon, and offers an arena fit for knee-knocking, match-deciding putts.
All things considered, Muirfield's rich history, balanced course, and timeless golfing atmosphere justify a perennial spot on the world's top shelf. This course is the best in the East Lothians, and *arguably* the best championship test on the greater English/Scottish landmass.
One of the best days of golf you will ever have. The holes are routing are as good as any, the clubhouse reeks of history, the lunch is wonderful. If you get the opportunity to play here, DO IT! There are no sea views but the course itself is beautiful.
My favourite course that I have played so far everything from the reception to leaving was first class love the place
Muirfield is a very good test of golf, and known to be demanding but fair. It is unlike any links course I know. Each hole is quite testing and strategic, but reasonably playable off the appropriate tees. Play decent golf shots and pars are not a problem. However if you stray off line be prepared to be punished with long rough and deep pot bunkers taking full toll.
The terrain is not overly dramatic, and the holes are perhaps not as 'visual' as some, nevertheless Muirfield is clearly a quality championship course.
Notable holes include:
the par 4 second hole with impressive wall to the left of the green and a cluster of bunkers right
the par 4 third hole where the fairway narrows for the approach as two big dunes frame the view to the green
the long uphill par 3 seventh hole
the long par 4 eighth hole with a rolling twisting fairway, and bunkers everywhere
the short par 4 eleventh hole with gorgeous sea backdrop
the pretty shortish par 3 thirteenth hole surrounded by bunkers
the uphill par 3 sixteenth hole
the par 5 seventeenth hole with the green nestled in a ring of low dunes
the par 4 eighteenth hole with the classic clubhouse as a background, and so many bunkers to negotiate along the way
Playing Muirfield is a pure golfing experience! Lunch in the clubhouse and a game of foursomes in the afternoon make the day even more memorable.
Muirfield should be on every golfers bucket list.
Peter Wood is the founder of The Travelling Golfer – click the link to read his full review.
I would initially like to state the times I have played Muirfield I was with a member and thus my review does not take into account the visitors green fees price involved in the round.
On arriving at Muirfield I was happy to find out that there was a very ample practice area to hone my skills. This proved to be absolutely necessary for myself throughout the day. A small bonus but free tees are also given out for those like myself who like a memento of each course.
My immediate impression of the course was that my skills were going to be pushed to the max. I will keep my review concise. The course is tight, fast and testing. I found it very painful and at times incredibly frustrating. However, when a well executed shot was placed only a feeling of great accomplishment could be felt.
I think the other reviewers have described the technical aspects of the course well and would place it on any golfers bucket list.