North Berwick (West) - Lothians - Scotland
Beach Road,
North Berwick,
East Lothian,
EH39 4BB,
Scotland
+44 (0) 1620 892135
24 miles east of Edinburgh
Contact in advance
Elaine McBride
David Strath, Old Tom Morris, Ben Sayers, C. K. Hutchison
Martyn Huish
The West Links at North Berwick Golf Club is an immensely enjoyable golf course, located on the Firth of Forth with stunning sea views across to Craigleith Island and Bass Rock. The equivalent of Turnberry’s “Ailsa Craig”, Bass Rock is a huge volcanic lump, rising up over 300 feet from the Firth of Forth. It’s the closest seabird sanctuary to the mainland and home to 80,000 nest sites; approximately 10 per cent of the world’s population of Atlantic Gannets stay here.
North Berwick’s West Links has taken some time to evolve into the 18-hole course that’s now in play. Elementary golf – which was largely frowned upon by the local authorities – had been played on the ‘toune links’ in North Berwick since at least 1672, but it wasn’t until the foundation of North Berwick Golf Club in 1832 that a properly designated course was brought into play.
The ground used for organized golf extended only to the “March Dyke” which crosses the current 3rd and 16th holes and only six holes could be fitted into this small parcel of land, so that medal competitions were played over three circuits, allowing golfers to complete an 18-hole round. A seventh hole was eventually squeezed into this tight tract.
Moves to expand west, beyond the March Dyke stone wall, were made in 1868. Thanks to the Right Hon. John Nisbet-Hamilton, who owned the property, three additional holes were laid out – one of which was the famous Redan short hole – and this allowed one of the existing seven holes to disappear. Only two circuits were now required to play an eighteen-hole round.
Nine years later, further negotiations with the Nisbet-Hamilton family resulted in the course edging as far as the Eil Burn, with The Scotsman newspaper reporting that Messrs. Brodie (the Provost) and Whitecross (a member) had assisted David Strath (“keeper of the North Berwick green”) who in turn had received “hints given by Tom Morris on a recent visit.”
The course now comprised eighteen holes, but seven of them were less than 200 yards in length so another effort was made in 1895 to push even further to the west, giving the course an overall yardage of 6,095 yards. Modifications to this layout were then carried out under the supervision of Ben Sayers Jr. and C. K. Hutchison when additional ground was leased in 1932, stretching the course to a little over 6,400 yards.
There are two reasons why North Berwick is such an enjoyable course: 1) the land is raised above sea level, affording those excellent views 2) it has a superb collection of holes, a number of which have been replicated at other courses the world over.
The 15th is one of the world's most famous holes. It’s a par 3 measuring 190 yards, called “Redan” (a military term meaning “guarding parapet”), and is the most copied hole. Bernard Darwin referred to this hole in his book, Golf Courses of the British Isles: “a beautiful one shot hole atop a plateau with a bunker short of the green, to the left, and another further on to the right, and we must vary our mode of attack according to the wind, playing a shot to come in from the right or making a direct frontal attack".
One of the many delights of North Berwick is that you can play the course without being punished brutally by penal rough. The club prefers a round to take no more than three hours, consequently the rough is kept relatively short to speed up play. It’s not the longest links course but it’s sheer fun and a unique experience. You’ll need to negotiate stonewalls, deep bunkers, all kinds of humps and hollows and burns. You’ll also experience blind shots and you’ll need to hit out over the beach. North Berwick is genuinely entertaining.
It’s not often that we thank politicians, but in this case, we should take our hat-off to golf mad former Prime Minister Arthur J. Balfour, immortalised as “The Golfour” by Punch magazine. He was once captain of North Berwick and took every opportunity to popularise golf.
According to golf historian Archie Baird, Balfour once said: “a tolerable day, a tolerable green and a tolerable opponent supply, or ought to supply, all that any reasonably constituted human being should require in the way of entertainment. With a fine sea view in front of him, the golfer may be excused if he regards golf, even though it be indifferent golf, as the true and adequate end of man’s existence.”
So, what are you waiting for? If Arthur liked North Berwick, then surely you will too.
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I couldn’t believe it when I checked my old notes to find out it had been all of six years since I last played here. A few things had changed – including a wonderfully refurbished old clubhouse (check the notes from the original secretary of 1832 displayed in the entrance hallway) – but then a lot had stayed exactly as I remembered it, not least of which was the warm welcome from the caddie master, starter and professionals. Talk about being made to feel a member for the day!
As to the course, my last review from December 2004 mentioned the relatively bland nature of holes 4 to 9 – was I on some sort of hallucinogenic drugs when I wrote that?
What a brilliant stretch, including two cracking par threes at holes 4 and 6 and a tight, slightly doglegged par five at the 9th with some lovely bunkering down the right side of the fairway.
Holes 13 to 17 are simply fantastic; each and every one a unique, semi-eccentric celebration of all that’s good about playing traditional links golf. If you don’t feel exhilarated playing these natural, lie of the land holes that tumble across some very uneven ground then I suggest you’re already clinically dead.
Many reviewers remark on North Berwick’s exceptional value for the green fee paid. Well, what about paying 35 quid on a decent winter’s day like today, playing from proper tees and putting out on green velvet carpets? Now that has to be an absolute bargain for a course that currently stands within the Scottish Top 10 rankings.
Just goes to shows there are great winter bargains to be had for a very modest outlay if you look hard enough.
Jim McCann.
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