The pretty fishing village of Downings lies on the edge of Sheep Haven Bay in the north of County Donegal. Donegal is rapidly becoming one of Ireland's best golfing destinations and the secluded Rosapenna is where the old meets the new.
Golf at Rosapenna dates back to 1891, when Old Tom Morris set out the original holes on the Old Tom Morris course; running round the hotel, up onto the hill between the hotel and Mulroy Bay, then back into the valley that lies between the dunes and the beach. Harry Vardon upgraded this layout in 1906, then James Braid is said to have made design suggestions on his visits before Harry Colt created five new holes between 1911 and 1916.
After Frank and Hilary Casey purchased the property in the early 1980s, they called in Eddie Hackett to revitalize the golfing set-up at the hotel and he designed eight extra holes in the dunes to replace those running round the hill. Pat Ruddy then takes up the story in his book Beyond His Lordship’s Wildest Dream: Rosapenna:
“Eddie was inevitably slowing down in the few years
before his death in 1996 and his planned new holes were just edging into play
when I was invited to visit and everything changed. The Sandy Hills links was
conceived and it became clear to me that nine lovely old-fashioned links holes
could be fitted into the low dunes between it and the road to make the Old Tom
Links play on sand all the way. All but snatches of Eddie’s work was abandoned.
Instead, there would be twenty-seven new holes!”
Sandy Hills quietly opened for play in June 2003 and slowly, but surely, the golfing world began to recognise that this course is special. Old Tom chose to route the Old course alongside the dunes, but Pat Ruddy had different ideas – he decided to carve straight through them and this is presumably how the name Sandy Hills came into being. Right from the off, you are in a lunar landscape, among gigantic dunes. Going over and through the dunes provides a platform to drink in the stunning views across the Old course to Sheep Haven Bay beyond.
Measuring 7,183 yards from the back tees and with the par set at 72, Sandy Hills will test the very best. Each and every hole has precise definition with the hummocking fairways framed by the dunes, so the immense challenge is always clearly visible from the tees. Whatever you do, don't stray too far offline, otherwise you'll be lucky to find your ball in the dunes. And make sure that your approach shots are accurate too, because the greens are invariably cut into the dunes or sited on elevated plateaux.
Rosapenna was worthy of a visit just to play the Old course, but Pat Ruddy has improved on that too, by remodelling the back nine. They’ve called the new-look course the ‘Old Tom Morris Links’ after its eminent original designer and it opened for play in September 2009. But it's the Sandy Hills course that everyone is talking about and there's only one way to find out how good it really is.
American architect Beau Welling – who renovated the Quinta do Lago (North) course to great critical acclaim in 2014 – has recently been involved in “softening” the Sandy Hills course a little bit. The first hole is now a sensible par five (instead of a murderous long par four opener) with a penal bunker removed from the front of the green. Similar bunker removals have also taken place on holes 4, 9 and 13, allowing ground game approach shots to reach the green.
New fairway bunkers have been installed at holes 1, 5 and 8 whilst, on the back nine, the right doglegged par five 13th has had a new green installed, along with three new bunkers down the left side of the fairway. Completing the renovation, the reshaped home green is now angled at 45 degrees to the line of play, with shaggy mounds installed at the back to shield the 18th green from the car park.
The severity of the green contours on holes 10, 12 and 16 still give some cause for concern so it appears that they’re next in line for some remedial work in the near future. It’s always good to see new golf courses evolve in their early years as owners react to constructive criticism and Sandy Hills is certainly no exception to that process.
We played Sandy Hills recently and contrary to the previous review, our foursome loved this course. I agree with one of the comments below in that it’s a tough and long walk made even more difficult if you have to go ball hunting regularly in the enormous energy sapping dunes. Make sure you play off the tee that reflects your ability… we are all decent golfers ranging from low single digit to 12 handicap and found the white tees exceptionally challenging, some of the par fours into the wind were simply impossible to reach in regulation. Put your bravado aside and play off the yellows unless your game is hot… some of the carries can be quite daunting too. Most fairways are tight and you need to keep the ball in play, so use your driver sparingly and avoid spraying the ball around otherwise you will lose plenty of balls. I totally disagree that Sandy Hills is uninspiring and unexciting. This is a fun course that not only makes you think and constantly re-evaluate your shot making but it comes with magnificent 360-degree ocean/bay views and this is a course not only for the golf addict but also for the dune junky. The raised and in some cases domed greensites would have Donald Ross smiling in his grave and the par threes are simply magnificent. Perhaps the only weakness of the course is that the bunkers are sometimes hidden from view and are a little untidy around the edges but that aside, this is a world-class course that simply must be played by any serious golf course aficionado. I loved every moment of it, even the sheer exhaustion that transpired as a healthy glow when we sipped our Guinness in the wonderful new clubhouse after what was a truly memorable round.
If you have played the Glashedy at Ballyliffin, you would know exactly who the course architect of Sandy Hills Links was as you stood on the first tee looking out into dunes to the first hole – it could only be Pat Ruddy, the Irish golfing magician with the ability to create big dipper, thrill a minute, links golf in and amongst the most inhospitable of terrain.
Ruddy design hallmarks abound: spectacular elevated tees, clearly visible landing areas and subtly undulating raised greens where anything short is easily gobbled up by protecting bunkers at the front – golf here is designed to be exhilarating and if your pulse is not racing as you go round then you should be packing away your clubs and taking up another sport.
It is demanding and far from easy to play but if you like your links golf to be spectacular then this is the place to play. A brand new clubhouse has been built which is enormous – serious cash has been spent on the fitting out of the locker rooms and shop downstairs plus the lounge and dining room upstairs – so it's evident Rosapenna has invested heavily in the future of golf in this remote north west corner of Donegal.
And that investment continues as the Old course is to be revamped in the very near future, removing the old back nine and replacing it with new holes that venture into the same dunes that the Sandy Hills course is built on. When updated, the Old course should be able to rival its big brother next door as it doesn’t quite come close enough at the moment. Oh, and the greenkeepers told me there are fifty new bunkers planned for Sandy Hills so there’s no resting on laurels here either.