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1 mile E of Sandwich
Contact in advance - not at the weekend
In 1885, Dr William Laidlaw Purves of Royal Wimbledon Golf Club, spotted from the vantage point of St Clement’s church a spectacular piece of undulating land with expansive sand dunes. Being a Scot and a keen scratch golfer, he decided that there was only one thing to do with this links land; create a golf course. In 1887, the course opened for play and was named 'St George’s' after the English patron saint.
"For a course that is still comparatively young," wrote Bernard Darwin in his 1910 book, The Golf Courses of the British Isles, "Sandwich has had more than its share of ups and downs. It was heralded with much blowing of trumpets and without undergoing any period of probation, burst full-fledged into fame."
After only seven years of play, in 1894, Sandwich hosted its first of fourteen Open Championships. This was the first Open to be played outside Scotland.
Royal patronage was granted in 1902 and the Prince of Wales (later King Edward VIII) became club captain. Many celebrated people have been affiliated with the club; the great golf writer Bernard Darwin was president of Royal St George’s between 1952 and 1961.
The course is not a traditional out and back layout. In a similar style to Muirfield, each nine is broadly circular, a loose figure of eight. There is nothing artificial about Royal St George’s; there is a natural look and feel to the course that blends beautifully into the surroundings, with wild flowers, dune grasses and the sweet song of the lark. Commanding views over Pegwell Bay and the white cliffs of Dover ensure an engaging experience.
All the holes are very different and memorable, a true sign of a great golf course. Royal St George’s also has some unique features; thatched roof shelters, the red cross of St George on the flags, and that bunker on the 4th hole cut into a huge dune, the UK’s tallest and deepest bunker. If you can carry that famous bunker on this 470-yard par four, then you can enjoy the peace of the fairway beyond, called the 'Elysian Fields'.
The par three 6th is called the 'Maiden'. We’ll let Bernard Darwin explain why: “There stands the ‘Maiden’ steep, sandy and terrible, with her face scarred and seamed with black timbers, but alas! we no longer have to drive over her crown: we hardly do more than skirt the fringe of her garment.” 'Suez Canal' is the 14th, so called according to Darwin because; “many a second shot has found a watery grave”. The 15th is considered architecturally to be one of the most impressive in golf because the fairway bunkers are virtually symmetrical.
"After the strategic school of golf architecture started to dominate thinking in the early 20th century, it became fashionable to criticize Sandwich as a big hitter's paradise, with too many blind shots," wrote Tom Doak in The Confidential Guide to Golf Courses. "After the First World War, some of the most famous holes were changed – the Maiden hole was re-oriented so one did not have to play up and over the famous dune, and greens like the 9th and 17th were moved from blind hollows to their present locations on grand plateaus, perhaps by Dr. MacKenzie himself."
In the mid 1970s, Frank Pennink was brought in to eliminate further blindness. Three new holes were built and tee changes were made to two other holes. Many, except for devout traditionalists, believe that these changes further improved the layout.
"Whatever petty criticisms have been leveled over the lack of visibility on some holes, or the need for good fortune to master its difficulties, Sandwich has the four prerequisites of great architecture, and it has them in spades," continues Tom Doak. "Challenging golf holes, beautifully crafted greens and bunkers, a character of its own, and stunning scenery."
Royal St George’s certainly represents one of the most difficult tests of golf, requiring courage, confidence and solid ball striking. Severely undulating fairways make good scoring very tough indeed. Often the tee shot will come to rest on an upslope or a down slope, then one needs to hit a long iron or fairway wood into the green from an uneven lie.
Ian Fleming, the author of the James Bond books, was a member here at Royal St George’s. The golf scenes from the film Goldfinger were filmed at Stoke Park, but Fleming called the course “Royal St Marks” in the film, no doubt inspired by his home club.
Sandwich is a classic links course, summed up nicely by Bernard Darwin: “My idea of heaven as is to be attained on an earthly links”. Darwin went on to become president of the club between 1952 and 1961.
I recently played at Royal St George's or as its locally known Sandwich. The first time i played there must have been well over 15 years ago as a junior and the weather was less than favourable with rain coming in sideways. We also received a less than hospitable welcome on that occasion as we tried to order breakfast without having pre ordered or dressed in the appropriate jacket and tie.
I must say that i'd left the course at the back of the pile of places to visit again, however, on my most recent visit i'm delighted to say that i saw the course in all of its majestic glory.
I played it as part of a society with 18 holes in the morning, lunch (wearing the appropriate attire on this occasion) and a round of foursomes in the afternoon.
The weather could not have been better, clear skies, touch of wind to keep us cool and a very chirpy caddy who offered valued insights into how to master this great beast.
Each hole seems to be set on its own individual plot, there is no criss crossing of fairways here and the feeling of space between the holes is vast. You can really feel how the course lends itself to holding The Open. It officially plays as a 70 although there are 2 very long par 4's on each 9 which they also put down on the scorecard as bogey 5's, allowing you to play them as par 5's and taking the course to 72 if you wish, which for most amateur golfers would seem fairer than playing it as a 70 in my opinion. Those 2 holes i fell short of each day even with good drives and second shots.
I wouldn't say there are any weak holes on the course although the closing stretch of 3 or 4 manage to stand out even amongst such esteemed company.
The green fee price is high but i highly recommend taking the plunge and making it a full day of pure indulgence and enjoying the lunch if you can, a spectacular affair. You will have to wear jacket and tie but i treated it as an occasion to dress up rather than a chore. If its your first time i recommend getting a caddy as there are still a few blind shots even after the alterations at the end of the 70's which brought it back onto the Open rota.
I must say i am a convert to Royal St George's traditionally British charms.
Played here in 2016, just getting round to an update. A wonderful course and I would rate as the hardest (but fair) I have ever played. Great fun with two rather eccentric caddies. Only denied the 6 balls due to my previously described lack of 'wow' factor also noted at Royal Birkdale. My reviews are harsh, reserving the 6 for truly unforgettable experiences. I can only remember two holes well here one year on. I can remember 14 at Pebble Beach and a similar number at St Andrews. This is a terrific course and highly recommended.
We played here on the 21st March and were lucky to have a nice sunny day. That was only half of it though as we had 15 to 20 mph winds, but isn't that what links golf is all about.
The whole experience was great, we found the place to be friendly and welcoming and while they have areas at times with dress code and for members only I have no problem with that, just enjoyed the beer at the end.
Of course this place is all about the course and I loved it 2 through 9 was a great stretch with 8 standing out to me, this maybe because we played it into the 20 mph wind which made it really hard. On the back nine 15 and the par3 16th were my favourites again because on 16 we were playing into that wind that meant you just had to hit and keep your fingers crossed.
I cannot compare to Royal Birkdale (yet) but have played a number of links around the country and this is easily the best.
The best course in England (although ive only played 45 of top 50). The first hole is the weakest (a shame as weak holes should be tucked away mid round) but there are some quite brilliant holes. Just above Birkdale for me which has 2 "ordinary" holes, perhaps
I rate it overall as one of the best golf courses in England, and a better links course than both Royal Lytham and Royal Birkdale. I have never been a fan of the out and back layout and Sandwich is not one; it provides a superior routing of holes. There are no parallel holes and a constant change in hole direction, which is very important when the wind is up, which it often is.
The day I played at Royal St. George's, the wind was up. The temperature was roughly 50 degrees and the wind was blowing at a sustained 25 mph with higher gusts.
I found three holes at Royal St. George's to be particularly good. The par five 14th hole, "Suez Canal" has out of bounds down the entire right side and a burn/swale in play off the tee. You can't just wail at your second shot, since short of the green there are bunkers on the left side of the fairway and the fairway narrows to about 25 yards. Yet, if you can thread the needle and land in that area you will likely be rewarded with a birdie; otherwise you will pay the price. The fairway bunkers 80 yards short of the green will penalize you if you try to get the ball to the green. Even this close to the hole, you have to just get the ball out as your first priority. It is a hole you really have to use your head to play well.
The #1 handicap hole, the eighth, is a dogleg right and has a very interesting and challenging green complex that is artfully bunkered. Your second shot to the green plays downhill and usually downwind. Very tricky.
The fourth hole, Sahara, has an enormously large bunker on the right side of the hole. You hit from an elevated tee to a fairway that is wildly undulating and the green is even wilder. If you hit long past the green you are in the backyard of a local resident. Definitely a unique hole.
John Sabino is the author of How to Play the World’s Most Exclusive Golf Clubs
It would be redundant for me to add a review of the course itself, given the illustrious history and pedigree of the club. Plenty of eloquent laudations out there. Bottom line is, within a couple hrs drive from Central London, it is the best golf to be had. Try and pick a windy day to play it for the full links experience, for links golf without wind is like a dish seasoned without salt.
For those who are reading the review and ratings to decide to play it, I would encourage everyone to try and play it more than once, or with a caddy the first time if they want to score. There are many blind tee shots, hidden bunkers, and green designs requiring approaches that have to be aimed at the correct portion. Impossible to achieve on the first occasion, and it gets frustrating as it's easy to lose even a well-struck tee shot that's a bit offline, and also easy to end up three-putting from the wrong part of the green. Links golf indeed, but knowing the lines and greens is key to scoring.
My only (strenuous) gripe about the course is the poor state of the greens on the two occasions I visited it (August of 2015 and Oct 2016), which compelled me write the review. On both trips, the greens had been scarified, and had deep grooves running along virtually all of them. Putting near-parallel to the channels threw the balls offline like gutters, and putting across the grooves slowed the roll considerably as they bumped across the ridges. They were simply not running true, so impossible to score properly. This disappointment was compounded when after the first visit I made it a point to ask about the state of the greens when I booked my second trip, and was only told that the greens had been "over-seeded two weeks ago" but were otherwise in good condition. Not so--I consider scarified greens to be inadequate for true play. Unless the scarified grooves are a permanent fixture of the greens, the lack of transparency by the booking office bordered on disingenuity, or ignorance at the very least. My home club warns all visitors when bookings if the greens have been hollow-tined or in less than optimal condition. A club of RSG's stature should do the same, and either offer a discount when the greens are in suboptimal condition, or risk turning away some business. Despite my frustration, I didn’t bother to complain to the club—given that they had not provided adequate forewarning, I didn't expect a positive response to my complaint. I suppose most visitors would be spell-bound by the setting and rest of the course features, and overlook that aspect of the course.
Having grown up in Thanet and still never played it I finally made it - and it was even better than I hoped it would be.
LOVED the layout of the course, and the condition was superb.
The greens looked as if they had been painted green so vivid was the colour and they ran perfectly true and good speed.
I dont take all the moans I have heard over the years about the blind holes as this was mine and my playing partners first visit and we got round to handicap (cat 2) with only skycaddie and common sense.
Pro shop and starter very helpful and friendly.
Loved the day and the course and hope to return.
Unsure why - having already relieved us of a chunk of green fee - the Club was so reluctant to let us near a bar after though ???
played here on 25-7-2016. I know when I have had the pleasure of playing a good course as I immediately want to go back out there. Royal St George's falls into that category. This place is special and is golf in the "raw", how it was meant to be played. You stand on several tees and wonder how someone dreamed up the hole from the land in front of you, thankfully they did and what a great job they made of it. In truth the greens were not in the greatest condition on the day we played but still ran true and nicely paced so all is forgiven. This is a thinkers course of the highest order and I have played some good ones before, but none better than this.
I can't imagine what it is that you expect that is better than RSG. I played here for the first time in early August 2016 with my 16year-old, 3 handicap daughter. We had the services of a very obliging young caddy and we pretty much had the course to ourselves. I was struck by the unstuffy nature of the staff at RSG. From the professional to the lady behind the counter in the gloriously modest Snack Bar: modest in name but not in its surroundings, patrons nor its proper hearty fare.
And I think this is an important point to make: the experience at such a fine club starts before setting foot on the course and in this respect RSG far exceeds all lofty expectations that one may arrive armed with.
The course was in tip-top condition; greens cut with a manicure scissors had I not known otherwise. The routing of the course is almost without rival. Muirfield twists and turns in much the same way and I'd go so far as to say that RSG and Muirfield stand head and shoulders above anywhere else in the UK.
My daughter and I both played from the gents' daily tees and she coped admirably with the c 6,500 yards distance on the day registering among other scores a fine birdie 3 on the famous Himalayas 4th hole. A wonderful day's golf and somewhere that will remain firmly on the 'bucket-list venues that must be revisited.' A genuine 6-star golf course with staff to match. John H