Llao Llao - Argentina

Llao Llao Resort & GC (pronounced zhow zhow) opened in 1929 as a nine hole course designed by Luther Koontz, who also designed Olivos GC.

The course is part of the fabulous Llao Llao Hotel & Resort near Bariloche in Argentina. The hotel is absolutely superb, and I only wished we had stayed longer...

The setting is gorgeous with the course and hotel surrounded by lakes and snow capped mountains. It's almost too good to be real!

The original nine holes by Koontz were located on a heavily treed peninsula near the hotel, but in 1994 Emilio Serra was employed to add a further nine holes on the other side of the hotel.

The two nines are connected by tunnels under the main road. In the adding the additional nine, Serra starts the round with 2 of the original nine and then uses the new holes from 3 to 11 before returning to the original holes for the completion of the round.

As a general rule the newer holes have younger trees, so it will take some time before they match the look and feel of the original holes where the trees are mature and dominate proceedings. In time I believe the new holes will fit in well.

Llao Llao is a short simple course. It measures 5913 yards off the back markers with a par of 70. In places it is quite tight with fairways on the older areas of the course framed by mature pines placing an emphasis on accuracy off the tee.

The greens have plenty of interest, and despite a number of short approaches can protect par by 'hiding the pins' behind swales, bunkers or steep drop offs. And there is enough movement in the greens to raise the possibility of 3 putting for ultra conservative approaches...

Llao Llao is a joy to play!

With two absolute world class holes (10 & 18), and a number of others that are memorable we would recommend this course for all Travelling Golfers. It is not a championship course, but it is an engaging golfing experience, and one that should not be missed.

Peter Wood is the founder of The Travelling Golfer – click the link to read his full review.

I have played this Course twice back some years ago and didn't notice review was not posted, but luckily I have good memory plus some pics helped me to supply some more info for those willing to go and play it.

It is set in one of the nicest geographies in Argentina and the entire world, with the Nahuel Huapi Lake coming into play in 4 holes, views of it and the snowed mountains almost everywhere and the tall pines forest from 12 to 17 make it just beautiful.

The Course Design is not great, original holes by Luther Koontz were set many years ago (1-2-3 and Back 9) and some time later, maybe 15 years ago Emilio Serra completed the course with 6 new holes which opened in a Junior National Tournament where Tano Goya (current PGA and Euro Tour Players) scored 28-35 to set the Course Record.

This course has 2 different worlds, the old and the new. Lets go to the new holes, which are 5 short par 4s and a par 3 on the other side of the road close to the hotel and only 4th hole I would say is a good idea up the hill with fairway breaking from left to right towards the hotel. The other 5 holes are weak, but the setting is so nice that who cares!

As for the Old part, there are many good ones:

- Par 5 1st down the hill.

- Par 4 2nd up the hill with blind second shot is one of the toughers.

- Par 4 10th is the toughest tee shot on the course, dog leg right (similar to 7th at Maidstone) with Lake Nahuel Huapi being the Water Hazard!

- 17th and 18th maybe the nices ending to a course in Argentina, another down hill par 5 and a dramatic par 3 over the lake carrying over 185yds.

I would say golf here is more of an experience than a great design, but very enjoyable. If you expect a Top 100 of the World Course, it is not the case. But if you want to play a fun course and then enjoy a nice meal at the small club house, it is an excellent idea.

The whistling wind is whipping over the vast glacial lake, sending sea like waves shh-ing onto the stoney shore below. The busy trees whinny and sway as I send my ball in a futile gesture toward a towering horizon it will never climb above. At this altitude it looks almost weightless in flight. Brilliant against the verdant slopes. Floating like a condor before finally giving up the fight; coming down to the deep emerald green splendour of the immaculate first fairway that snakes down and up again to the parapet green 500 yards away around the gentle dogleg. Following the curves to the right is the inlet on which Llao Llao langours by the lake.

I’ll have to cross that inlet with a long iron I suppose? for the par three 18th.

What a mystical place to play golf. I’ll forgive the four or five holes on the front nine that are in front of the majestic hotel, for being more filler than killer.

There are though, perhaps four or five holes that you just won’t forget. It isn’t long, it’s an easy walk, despite the undulating ground that sits between two mesmeric lakes surrounded by the high mountains. The greens were fantastic. Surprisingly complex for a vacation friendly golf course. You don’t mind three putting here though. Who’s counting?

We reach the turn intoxicated by the epic scenery and fine mountain air as we slip back down to the shore. My Eyes narrow. Searching across the bay for a target. 355 is the direct carry. A little further left then. Success! I’m left with a nine iron. The next one must have hit a vortex? Or maybe it was a crap swing? You decide. But I fish my first ball precipitously from the cold crystal clear water that is 470 metres deep in places. I crunch back up to the green to play my second land-loving ball. A fine double bogey if ever there was one. More photos. Many more photos.

The golf around the club house loops back around the first couple of holes nicely, through massively high trees and without too much drama until you reach the 18th. I imagine this is what Cypress point feels like?

I complete my days golf with a simple but delicious lunch in the club cottage. It feels like Gretal freed Hansel in it, or maybe Frodo stopped here on his epic journey? It’s cute and cosy. Alpine style.

I sit with a beer and a lomo de bife, drinking in the vista of the snow-capped peaks and contemplate a night In Bariloche, the lively frontier town I am based in. It’s lake side centre is full of superb restaurants enjoyed by vibrant outdoorsy people, mingling in the microbrewery bars and recounting the varying adventures of the day.

River plate wins the copa libertadores in extra time and suddenly a carnival spills onto the streets and the town is painted red and white for the night. It turns out that soccer is quite popular in South America.

Eventually, I prize myself away from the brewery pub in which I have been drinking some fine IPA, whilst chatting to some wind blushed German back packers, here for the hiking, and I retire to my suite overlooking the lake and set my alarm for Arelauquen the next day. Fantastico.

JCB LAY Instagram: the_barefoot_golfer